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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.